Christmas in Sicily: 3 sweets you don’t expect
The 3-Pronged Island is the home of sweets, that much is known. Between cannoli, cassatas and almond pastries, the choice is truly daunting.
During the Christmas season, in addition to the myriad of sweet delicacies that form the foundation of Sicilian pastries, other types of sweets are also prepared, true peculiarities of these festive weeks. Let’s find out together.
St. Lucy’s Kennel
The history of this Sicilian dessert, typical of Christmas days, is linked to two moments of famine that struck the cities of Palermo and Syracuse, in 1646 and 1763, respectively. The story goes that the people, now exhausted and overwhelmed by the hardships that a long period of starvation entails, repeatedly prayed to the deities for those terrible sufferings to end.
In both circumstances it was on December 13 that ships filled with grain landed in the ports of the two cities. People were so hungry that they did not have time to reduce grain to flour. In fact, this precious food was boiled and consumed immediately: but how was it seasoned?
Some versions of the story tell that oil was simply added, but others relate that the wheat was mixed with cottage cheese and chocolate, as well as honey and figs.
In hindsight, we know that the version that has withstood the passage of time the most is the sweet version. Despite this, to this day, in some areas of eastern Sicily for Santa Lucia it is customary to eat Cuccia with chickpeas, thus in its oldest version.
The Sicilian Buccellato
Buccellato is an ancient shortbread-based dessert that is prepared during the holiday season. It owes its name to the “Buccellatum“, a sweet bread consumed by ancient Latin civilizations and which could be said to be the progenitor of the recipe that is consumed today.
In some parts of Sicily, Buccellato is also called “Cudduredda“, which in dialect means chaplet. The appellation most likely refers to the doughnut shape with which it is made. As anticipated, the casing of Buccellato is made of short pastry. Inside it is stuffed with dried figs, raisins, almonds and orange peel, although everyone always tends to add a little personal touch, depending on where they come from. The pastry is also often garnished with a mix of candied fruits.
Shortbread children: buccellatini
Returning for a moment to the etymology of the term, “Buccellatum” literally means bread to be turned into whelks, or “small morsels“. That is why in addition to the classic doughnut shape, delicious single portions are also made: the Buccellatini.
The base used to make them is very similar to that of the donut version of Buccellato, what changes, however, is the outer topping. In fact, in this case, powdered sugar is used, resulting in a result that is certainly simpler, but no less good.
Mustazzoli: the quintessential Christmas cookies
Among the many typical Sicilian Christmas treats, cookies are certainly not to be missed! But which ones? The Mustazzoli, also known as Mastazzoli o Mustaccioli, are products homemade made from cooked wine, flour, roasted peanuts and spices.
These have very ancient origins; in fact, it is said that they were already prepared at the time of the Saturnalia, religious festivals in honor of Saturn, celebrated at the time of Ancient Rome. Over time, Mustazzoli have undergone numerous evolutions, both in recipe and form.
From flat, rhomboidal cookies baked with all the ingredients mixed into the dough itself, there was a shift to preparations of only flour, cinnamon, and cooked wine, then topped with raw ingredients (honey, dried fruits, candied orange peels, and so on).
This leads to cookies filled with uncooked dough and then baked, made from a rectangle of about ten centimeters by five of dough made of type “00″ flour and cooked wine.
The latter variation is typical of the Catania area, where the shape has been further modified. Here in fact, Mustaccioli are created with the typical “S” or cigarette shape.
In short, not even at Christmas does Sicilian gastronomy disappoint. We just have to explore this culture, including from a taste perspective.
Giada Saglimbeni