The crags: where and when to sport climb in Sicily
The crags of Sicily are among the most fascinating places on the Isle of the Sun. In fact, these sheer walls have always held a strong attraction, especially in the art world. Just think of the Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich author of the painting
The White Cliffs of Rügen
and to Monet with his painting
The White Cliffs of Etretat
. In literature, too, there are well-known cases where crags serve as the backdrop for narrated events. The novels of the
Commissario Montalbano
by Andrea Camilleri constitute one example.
In Sicily and around the world, they are also increasingly frequented by tourists and extreme sports lovers. But what exactly are crags? In geography, the term of French origin means a Steep escarpment subject to continuous erosion by weather and non-weather agents, such as wind and sea. Such characteristics, therefore, make them perfect especially for practicing sport climbing, either solo or joined by
experienced climbers, such as the team and partners of Mapo Tapo
.
Where to climb in Sicily
Do climbing on the crags of Sicily is definitely a way to
experience Trinacria at 360°.
. With its steep windswept rocks, Italy’s largest island allows for extreme sports to be practiced and the sea to be enjoyed in total relaxation and in respect of the landscape heritage Sicilian. All this, without neglecting to visit its artistic and cultural beauties of the surroundings as well as taste the traditional Sicilian dishes.
But where is it possible to do climbing in Sicily? By morphological conformation, it is mainly the western part of the island To be predisposed to the practice of extreme sports. Let us therefore discover the main crags of Trinacria present throughout the territory.
The cliffs of Western Sicily
Between the cliffs of western Sicily certainly the best known are those between the province of Trapani and San Vito Lo Capo. In these locations, in fact, there are large ridges and rock faces such that they are highly attractive to experienced and inexperienced climbers.
So where to climb in San Vito Lo Capo specifically? Among the most beautiful crags in the area is. the cliff of Salinella. With over 260 routes, it is the largest area to climb. Its beauty derives from the color of the rock face, limestone with red and white streaks, which rises a few tens of meters from the sea to close the picturesque Gulf of Cofano.
Making the panorama of the Gulf of Hood even more fascinating is the beautiful Crown of Aragon cliff. The long, red-colored rock face is characterized by such morphology that it is intended only for experienced climbers, as it requires athletic and continuous climbing.
But certainly among the most striking cliffs of Sicily we cannot fail to mention the Never Sleeping Wall. At 500 meters from the sea, the wall that never sleeps is characterized by its gray and orange walls, which turn fiery red at sunset. Not far from Custonaci, it is listed among the top 7 most beautiful cliffs in the world.
Also noteworthy in this area are other crags such as:
- La Cathedral of the Desert, near Cala Firriato and suitable for beginners;
- Cerriolo Park Crag overlooking Cornino Bay from which to dive when you reach the top;
- Point Break on San Giuliano peak and not far from Erice.
And it is precisely between San Vito lo Capo, Custonaci and Trapani that the route winds its way‘Sicily by the Sea’
of Mapo Tapo: six days among golden tuff walls, crystal clear sea, different types of climbing, distinctive food and natural beauty. Instead, near the Mount Cofano Reserve it is possible to participate in the ‘Boulder Camp’, also signed Mapo Tapo, which confronts one choice almost immediately, that of one’s own boulder project, which each person will attempt to complete by the end of the week. All in a spirit of sharing, discovery and immersion in local realities.
Where to go climbing in eastern Sicily
The crags of eastern Sicily are, perhaps, less well known than on the West Coast but just as striking. There is to consider that in this area of the region, the morphological conformation changes: it is a volcanic zone and some of the cliffs were born as a result of Etna’s eruptions.
So from the limestone cliffs we move on to gray basalt cliffs with square, geometric lines, the same ones that distinguish the Willow Crag. Its rocks are located in a fault on the eastern slope of the well-known Sicilian volcano, and its walls slope toward the Ionian Sea. Rising to the north, these are not overly exposed to the sun, so they can provide optimal sport climbing conditions even during the winter months.
‘Sicily Rock and Fire’ is Mapo Tapo’s proposal for you to experience the thrill of climbing the very Willow Crag on the slopes of Mount Etna. But that’s not all, over the course of the week it will be possible to juggle in the nearby bouldering area, take part in a volcano discovery tour, and go climbing in settings as diverse as Syracuse and Buccheri.
Also unique for this very geological conformation are the Puntalazzo and Acqua Rocca cliffs. These allow experienced climbers and non-climbers to be able to climb the walls of a volcano that is, by the way, still active. Very unique experience!
Among the cliffs of eastern Sicily overhanging the sea is the beautiful cliff of Stockholm. Not far from Taormina, with its limestone wall and extreme proximity to water, it definitely requires strong experience and technical skills for climbing. On the other hand, however, at 700 meters high, it provides a unique view of Mount Etna.
Proceeding toward Syracuse, at the plateau of Canicattini Bagni, there are several crags, such as:
- Contralfano;
- Wolf Fist;
- Cavadonna;
- Quarry Baths;
- Echo Cavern.
Between sheer walls, caves and large holes surely these rock walls offer sport climbers a wonderful opportunity for a strenuous but fascinating experience.
Between Scicli and Modica, finally, you can test your body and mind thanks to the limestone cliffs present in the area. Among these to try are:
- Cava d’Ispica;
- Pandora;
- Red Timpa;
- The secret garden.
To make the climbing experience unforgettable, certainly contribute the area’s scenery made up of Unesco heritage properties, beaches with crystal clear sea and the excellent cuisine of the local tradition.
The crags of northern Sicily
In the Palermo area there are other routes dedicated to climbing. Precisely in the area of Monte Pellegrino, there is the Slave Rock. The 200-meter-high spur rises in Favorita Park and is distinguished by its drop-cut gray limestone rock. Because of its conformation, this rock face is suitable for those who are new to sport climbing and for those who like to rappel once they reach the top.
By convention, Slave Rock is divided into. four macro areas:
- Pigeonhole sector;
- Slave area;
- the Bonzo area;
- the part of the Hermit.
The sectors being contiguous, they are easily reached by a single route. For those who already have a strong athletic training for sport climbing, however, we can only recommend Bausu Red. This rock outcrop originates on the southern slope of Monte Gallo in Mondello. It is a strongly overhanging strip of rock, 100 meters long and 50 meters high, with extremely uneven walls. Its exposure, however, allows its climbing especially during the winter months and a long-range panoramic view.
When to climb the cliffs of Sicily: the San Vito Outdoor Fest
In the collective imagination, people think that rock climbing is a sport to be practiced only at certain times of the year, but this is not the case. In the specific case of Sicily, then, it is worth considering that this land enjoys 2,500 hours of daylight!
Definitely when you want to climb on the beautiful cliffs of Sicily and not one must consider factors such as:
- atmospheric (weather) conditions,
- The exposure of the rock face.
Regardless, though, San Vito Lo Capo in particular is a destination for lovers of extreme sports such as climbing even and especially during the ‘Outdoor Fest’. Oct. 12 to 16, the festival allows many world-class athletes and climbers to meet, as well as also attend competitions and tournaments of outdoor activities including mountain biking, kite surfing, sup and slack line, as well as hiking and paragliding.
With this event, the well-known Sicilian resort wants to create a special moment where they can enjoy the scenic beauty of beautiful Sicily by combining sports and fun.
by Annapasqua Logrieco