Selinunte, the glorious city of temples
Selinunte, a city known as Selinos during Hellenic times, was one of the most prosperous and powerful in the world with a population of about one hundred thousand. Overlooked by enchanting temples, to this day, thanks to their fantastic ruins, it offers a journey into the past in the Greek colony of Western Sicily, founded in 628 BC.
The city is situated atop a promontory between the Modione and Cottone Rivers, surrounded by plains that were covered with wild parsley, selinon in Greek, from which precisely the name is derived.
First a little history
The city is located in the province of Trapani, which is home to Europe’s largest archaeological park, covering about 270 hectares and including 7 temples that are more than 2,500 years old.
Selinunte was founded between 650 and 628 B.C. by settlers from Megara Hyblea (Augusta) who were seeking new trading outlets in the western part of the island. Thus, it grew and established itself because of its large population. An acropolis was built, the sanctuary of the Malophoros, and later the subcolony of Heraclea Minoa was founded.
Selinunte’s expansionist ambition brought it into conflict with important cities such as Segesta. After numerous wars, came the decisive one in 409 B.C. in which Carthage won over Selinunte, which was thus destroyed and sacked.
The city tried to recover but the continued failure of the expeditions led to a peace agreement by which Selinunte ended up in the hands of the Carthaginians. The city was thus rebuilt only in the acropolis part.
What to see in the park of Selinunte
In the archaeological park of Selinunte you can retrace the ancient history of one of the most glorious Greek colonies. The area includes seven temples, some of which are still in excellent condition to this day.
Climbing the hill of the acropolis you can see only the remains of temples A and O, which were almost identical, but in temple “A” symbolic Punic figures were found on the floor of the pronaos, such as the Phoenician goddess Tanit.
Temple “C” is the oldest of those present and probably served as an archive.
Temple “E” was dedicated to the goddess Hera or Aphrodite and is the best preserved temple, on the eastern hill, where theatrical events and concerts are often held. Every evening the temple is illuminated to enhance its beauty.
Temple “F,” possibly dedicated to the goddess Athena or Dionysus, is the oldest and smallest in the entire acropolis, and to this day only the remains are visible. Its uniqueness lies in its unusual east-facing entrance, perhaps due to the need to protect votive gifts or prevent laymen from watching particular rituals, such as the Dionysian mysteries.
Temple “G” was dedicated to Zeus and is the largest in the park, but its construction remained unfinished. One of the columns that remained standing, called “lu fasu di la vecchia,” has been the subject of legends and tales over the centuries.
Moving on in exploring the park, there is the Malaphoros shrine, located on Gaggera Hill. It is the oldest place of worship in Selinunte. Initially worships were celebrated outdoors, then the situation changed.
There, there is a large altar where remains of animal bones, ashes and other sacrifices were found. A number of necropolis areas were identified around the city, such as the Buffa necropolis north of the eastern hill, Galera Bagliazzo necropolis northeast of the Manuzza hill.
The northern part of the acropolis was occupied by the Selinuntine settlement, where there was apparently the agora. Excavations revealed that the place was inhabited since the founding of Selinunte but was abandoned for good after its destruction.
What to see near Selinunte
Certainly the ruins of the ancient temples of Selinunte constitute a special place not to be missed on a trip to Western Sicily. But, while you are there, you cannot miss a walk along the stretch of beach that extends below the ruins, from which there are spectacular views of the hilltop temples.
The only way to access the beach, where you can find the Zabbara Lido, is through Marinella di Selinunte, a coastal resort. Eventually, if you would like to continue the tour through Sicily, near Selinunte you can find the fantastic Salt pans of Trapani in Marsala, where to enjoy the islands of Mothia, one of the most Instagrammable views of Sicily!
Giulia Nari